Could two days possibly be enough to cover Rome’s main historic sights and world-renowned cooking? We were certainly going to give it a go…
Where we went: Vienna, Venice, Adriatic Coast, Rome, Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, Naples
When we went: July/August
Part 1: 48 Hours in Rome
Where: Venice to Rome
How: Car Hire (Europcar booked via Holiday Autos)
Price: £45 per day
Duration: 5h (although we diverted via the Adriatic Coast, taking our journey time to more like 6h)
Before this trip, the closest I had been to visiting Rome was eating at a restaurant called Via Roma in Skegness. So, while visiting in August wasn’t ideal (due to extreme heat and summer closing for many businesses), we simply couldn’t visit Italy and miss it.
The plan was to collect a car in Venice, decompress on the Adriatic Coast for a few nights, then drive to Rome for 48 hours. Aware that it wasn’t long enough to do more than scratch the surface, we resolved to stay centrally and explore what we could.
Based on the fact I’d read it was the cheapest place to get an Aperol Spritz in the city, we opted to stay in the neighbourhood of Monti, in the shadow of the Colosseum and with the central sights all accessible on foot.
DO
Central Sightseeing Walk (Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps & Pantheon)
As regular Rome-rs my parents had given me an essential tip: Staying central could rule out almost any need for public transport or taxis.
They weren’t wrong. Many of Rome’s main historical sights sit in a neat little loop, which makes them ideal for exploring on foot. We spent our first day happily Rome-ing through streets, taking in buildings so impressive in scale and beauty that they could have been CGI.
Our circular walk started in Monti - with the Colosseum at our backs - and took us to the Trevi Fountain. Packed with tourists wielding selfie sticks it was an impressive sight all the same. Just don’t put your hand in the water unless you want someone to blow a very loud whistle at you.
Next we headed to the Spanish Steps, built in the 1700s and famed for their ornate ascent and connection to Keats.
Sitting on the steps is strictly forbidden (whistles are blown… it’s a theme), but this is something that we used to our advantage. Every time a guard blows their whistle and clears the rule breakers off the steps, there’s always a brief period where they are almost empty. Perfect for running up and posing for a picture while you’ve got the steps to yourself!
We walked on to the Pantheon, a building so imposing and iconic, it’s genuinely hard to believe you are seeing it with your own eyes. What makes it especially surreal is the fact that it’s not visible until it’s right on you. You turn the corner of a busy little street that’s all souvenir shops and cafes and BOOM, it’s the Pantheon.
We were there out of opening hours, but peeking in at the beautiful interiors through cracks in the massive doors was arguably more fun that actually going in anyway.
We completed the circle by passing the huge Vittoriano, then along the Via dei Fori Imperiali, with the Coliseum once again in view.
Via dei Fori Imperiali
The Via dei Fori Imperiali was a revelation. This fascist era road ploughs straight through some of Rome’s most important historical sights. A travesty, but one that lets you feel like you really are in the middle of ancient Rome, with no ticket fee and accessible 24/7.
To one side of the road sits the restored Roman city complexes of Mercati di Traiano and the Forums of Augustus and Nerva, to the other is The Roman Forum. By the road there are maps and information boards and a statue of Julius Caesar. And looking out across the ruins, it’s not hard to envisage Caesar’s Rome.
Vatican City
Despite a decided lack of interest in the Pope, we were intrigued by Vatican City.
A ticketed visit to the Sistine Chapel was voted down 3 to 1 (with the youngest assessing images online and stating “I have seen it now, why would we need to go in?”), but we decided we’d go along to the free grounds of the Vatican, if only to tick it off the list.
Hot and tired we got a (surprisingly affordable) taxi across to the other side of the city and queued to get into St Peter’s Square. While there was no sign of the Pope (probably for the best), it was interesting to examine the extent of this huge complex.
Box ticked, we quickly exited, on the hunt for a taxi back to Monti.
Colosseum
Realising we couldn’t “do it all” in 48 Hours, our main pick for ‘sights to see’ was the Colosseum, Rome’s ancient elliptical amphitheatre.
Pre-ordering tickets in advance is essential, as the only way to get them on the day seems to be via touts (with the inevitable price hike).
We booked a timed visit and paid for the self-guided audio tour. Even with tickets, there was a big queue to enter this legendary home of gladiators.
But, of course, it’s worth it. You enter at the mouth of the building on its lower level, as the audience would have thousands of years ago, when the building's inaugural infamous games were held here in around 80 AD.
While it’s a building many of us are familiar with from stories and films, the sheer scale of what happened there didn’t dawn on me until we toured it, as the audio detailed the hundreds of thousands of slaves and wild animals who met their fate there.
The heat of the day reminded us why we hadn’t really wanted to visit in August, so we didn’t linger for long, as mind blowing as the whole thing was.
We resolved that we would return during cooler months when we could and would book the guided tour, which gives you unique access to the tunnels below the building. A warren of rooms and passages that held the animals and slaves below the arena and which have recently been restored.
EAT
Giolitti
One of our favourite food experiences in Rome was a chance discovery. On our city walk we followed a trail of littered ice cream spoons until it led us to famed gelateria, Giolitti.
Convinced it must be something to experience from the size of the queue, we blindly joined it, paid for our gelato at the cashier, then queued again to select our flavour, now inside this retro dessert parlour. The staff make light work of the queue, so have your flavour choice ready for when you are asked and when they ask you if you want cream say “yes”. Their signature is a delicious scoop of sweet cream piled on top and is not to be missed.
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
Our airbnb host’s food recommendations confirmed our own research and we booked neighbourhood restaurant La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali for dinner, asking for an outside table.
The restaurant’s instagram is populated with pictures of celeb diners and on visiting you can understand why. The staff were passionate and welcoming and the menu showcased Rome’s world-renowned cuisine.
We indulged in both the city’s famed pasta dishes, Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe pasta (in my case topped with the optional black truffle) and despite our concerns about eating big bowls of rich pasta on a hot summer evening, there wasn’t a crumb left (we probably could have done without the side dishes I also ordered though!).
www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com
Suppli and Pizza by the Slice
Our main eating goal in Rome was to consume as much Roman pizza by the slice (often costed by weight) and suppli (little fried rice balls) as possible.
Our host recommended popular local takeaway and cafe Forno da Milvio for just this and we visited three times to work our way through the offering (including little deep fried balls of Spaghetti Carbonara and pizza piled high with potato, blue cheese and herbs).
Just round the corner we also couldn’t resist pizza at the pleasingly old-fashioned Pizza & Mortadella (that served what it said on the sign). But the options are innumerable. We still have a hit list of places to visit next time, including Supplizio Roma and Roscioli (both closed when we tried to go) and a whole host of places recommended by foodie wonder Kate Parla (if you have watched Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy you will have seen her).
Maritozzi
Rome is famed for its Maritozzi, sweet cream buns.
We feasted on these for breakfast, both straight up and topped with pistachio cream. The most famous place to get there is Regoli, but if it’s closed (as it was in August, of course), the Pasticceria directly opposite (and almost any you will find in the city) serve their own delicious version too.
Aperitivo
In many of Rome’s bars you’ll find your Spritz will come accompanied by ‘a plate’, a selection of snacks to enjoy while you drink (a tradition that started in Northern Italy).
The bars that spill out into the square in Monti are a great place to experience it (we liked Civico 4). Don’t be put off if there’s not a table at first glance. The staff are busy, but accommodating and the short wait is worth it.
STAY
We hit the airbnb jackpot with a three bedroomed apartment right at the heart of Monti with both aircon and a roof terrace.
Situated at the very top of a residential building we loved entering the huge door and quietly climbing the stairs as residents went about their daily lives.
There was secure parking close by, host communication was to the point and his recommendations were perfection.
Other Properties on My airbnb Wishlist
Lovely 3Chic Maison Colosseum. District Monti
The final part of our Planes, Trains and Automobiles adventure is up next, Part 5: The Amalfi Coast, Pompeii & Naples.
Then, it’s on to Japan, where we probably already are when you are reading this (following me on instagram @amieocpoole if you are not already for a teaser of what we are up to).
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